my how my time has flown in india!! i cannot believe that it is time to head to japan, but i'm very very excited. i hardly had a chance to update over the last few weeks, so i would like to compile a list of my favorite moments from india. they are not in any particular order.-- day 1, the car ride to Dharamsala: our first experience of this country was when we were packed into a car and shuttled off to the northern state of himachal pradesh. of the 12 hours total that we were in the car, there were about 30 solid minutes when we
didn't think we were about to collide head-on with a vehicle screaming down the road the other way and be incinerated in an ensuing explosion. now i know you're probably all sick of my "terrible driving" stories, but this was by far the worst i have ever experienced. our grievances with the car were as follows:
1. it would regularly stall, and would have to be jump started. once this involved a rolling jump going backwards around a hairpin turn on a steep mountain road.
2. it didn't have any rearview mirrors. at the start of the trip there was one on the drivers side, but that broke off halfway through the day when we hit something or someone. we're not sure what happened.
3. there were no seatbelts in the back. fortunately i was shotgun, which did have a belt. the downside to this is that it's harder to ignore the horror unfolding in front of you when you have a clear view of the windshield.
4. the horn didn't work. this is a big one. communication between drivers becomes especially important when there are no apparent "rules of the road."
5. to add insult to injury, the tapedeck was broken, and we listened to a less-than-mediocre single followed by the b-side of the same tape over and over again. for 12 hours.
--the monkey temple. i hate monkeys. this was already clear to me when we decided to walk up to the temple at the top of the hill in shimla. i started getting nervous when people lining the walk started advertising for monkey sticks, a cure for the "monkey problems" that lay ahead. these are long wooden sticks used to scare off any would-be thieves, presumably by hitting the ground and not the monkeys themselves. but we figured the monkeys must be pretty scared of these sticks by now, so we got a couple. at the gate to the temple there was a statue of a fierce looking guard, so we were posing for a picture in next to the gate looking fierce ourselves with our monkey sticks. suddenly, from behind, a huge monkey jumped on my moms back, grabbed my dads glasses, and then climbed over me and started running away. it happened in an instant, and it took us a second to figure out what had happened. fortunately a man nearby had seem what happened, and was already chasing down the monkey. like jack mccoy, the man struck a deal with the criminal: monkey food for the tourists glasses. i'm think that might have been the monkeys plan all along.
--the taj mahal. it is one of india's great love stories. built by a man wrought with grief over the death of his wife. it's beautiful, it's covered in marble and intricate stone inlay work, it took 22 years to complete, and it's worth the trip halfway around the world to see it.
--the last meal in delhi before heading out was at "rodeo" which is delhis best attempt at new mexican food. not only does it have masala encheladas and fajitas, but the waiters are dressed up as cowboys, and there is nothing but western decor on the walls. the soundtrack is strictly country music until the live act comes on at 9. it is a man and a woman team singing along to pre-mixed songs on a casio keyboard, but the music selection remains entirely american hits. it's great. it's just like being at home, except that we were the only true wild wild westerners in the place. it's great to see that a hip young indian crowd (the place was packed on a wednesday night) likes to sit around on saddled bar stools and drinks margaritas. i always thought that that was something that was restricted to my time zone and one hour to the east.
-the amber fort. jaipur is in rajasthan. this is where the rajputs once reigned supreme. the palace here is enormous and beautiful. from the brightly painted public audience courtyard to the jewel and glass encrusted ceiling of the winter palace, this place is opulent. when the heat of the desert summer started getting the man down, he would have the cisterns on the roof of his breezy summer palace filled with water from the river. the water was then scented. when it flowed in waterfall style out of pipes over the doors and windows the breeze flowing through was cool and it smelled nice! the harem was very tastefully done with 12 equal chambers with tall walls so that no one could see which door the raj was entering. every surface of the entire palace seemed to be painted or carved in a beautiful combination of hindu, muslum, and distictly mugal styles. to make it just that much better, we got an elephant ride up to the fort on elephants which (they assured us) were in good health and well cared for.
those are just some of the highlights that i can think of right now. traveling in india can be a bizzare experience, and it is imossible not to feel the entire range of human emotions, but for the most part we really enjoyed the places we went and the people we talked to, and our trip was definately a success!